0001 COTIJUBA ISLAND WEST COAST

PART 5 (FINAL) FLEXEIRA, NOBODY’S LAND BEACH

I walked on to north for about a km, when I reached the last beach of this walk. It’s called Flexeira beach. It is virtually deserted, and people speak a lot about stingrays around here.

Initial and general view of flexeira beach

I was particularly astounded to envisage it’s natural beauty. Far ahead and halfway along the curve, one can see that the tide had flooded a section of it. The thought of having to cross a flooded area scared me. However, my curiosity overwhelmed me one more time. I started off along the hot blazing sand, wondering what thinks would be like at this stage. I was beginning to get tired. I sweated buckets, and humidity only seemed to increase, along with the wind.

A couple more meters ahead, I reached a creek which came along a dune, parallel to the shoreline. I then saw two riverboats down there.

Creek parallel to the shoreline

Two boats in the creek

The creek then curved towards the shore, and the dune followed it. The dune sloped abruptly towards the creek. I wondered if it would be a good idea, to climb it down and check. However, I didn’t know which kind of sand was that. Anyway, I marveled at the

Curve of the creek along the dunes

Then I reached an area of water, as a result of the high tide. I’ve always been afraid of entering most waters, but I really wanted to reach the northern part of the beach. I had come too far. It could be dangerous, but I had to try. So I entered the waters. There was endless 200 meters to be crossed. In the first 60 meters, the water was already up to my waist. I thought of coming back. But a feeling of duty kept me on the way. I felt vegetation on the bottom and sand. I thought to myself: it’s only higher water on the beach sand. However, as the water reached my chest, I began to wonder if it really would be possible to reach the other side. I still hadn’t  reached halfway. I waded on. I had to lift my backpack and tennis, which kept me from taking pictures. I should also mention the fear of the tide, which was still coming and rising.

I waded past submerged plants, and sometimes, their branches rubbed me on the legs and belly. Then, after about 100-120 meters, I almost stumbled on a higher submerged sandbank, which indicated me that I had finally reached shallower water.

I was also glad to know that it would be as shallow, all the way Just until the other side. As I finally got on dry land, I looked back and saw how far I had come. I couldn’t believe I had done it alone! I say, without any other human company!

  

View back on the area back, flooded by the tide, which I had just crossed

  

Phew!! I was relieved to be sound and safe. It took me precisely 20 minutes to wade across the flooded area. I then walked on. As I looked towards the inland, I noticed that some creek still accompanied me. This time, I didn’t dare cross it! Besides, I was getting hungry, and I didn’t want to stop at that stage.

Creek along the beach

Close to the northern end of Flexeira beach, a found an old boat under trees, where I could get some shadow. That’s where I decided to make a stop and picnic. I was glad to go up to that point. I thought of going further, to a beach called ‘Vai-quem-quer’, which means ‘goes who wants beach’. I just had one more mile ahead of me. However, I was fascinated with the Flexeira beach, and I ended up staying here for the afternoon, till is became less sunny, and temperatures dropped a little. I spend the late afternoon around this beach, bathing in the lagunes and lying down on the dunes.

Creek water, inviting for some rest and refreshment

View from the sand bank where I picnicked before walking back

The creek actually curved towards the shore, and it was shallow, allowing me to cross it. The was growing gentler, and I would have a look at the jungle, if I had more time, money, and supplies, of course. One can also take one of the lanes that go inland, up to the main road, where the tractor with wagon is supposed to pass. However, I would have to synchronize with that transport facility, and that could mean waiting somewhere, instead of moving around. Anyway, I decided to go all the distance, back again. At least it was no longer so hot!

Curve of the creek towards the shore

It was late afternoon, when I started off, back to the south.

I wanted to get the larger boat, but I don’t know if I would make it. However, once the larger boat was gone, I still could get a po-po-po-po boat, sailing back across the bay in the evening down to the nightfall.

Small creek winding up on the bay.

Despite is was the same way, I was glad to see it with another color and temperature. It’snot only the views which change in a trip, but also the climate, weather, temperature and nuances!

View back on the Flexeira Beach. Trudging back all the way!

In a giving point, I walked past some trees which had been leaned by the wind (I don’t know if my English is okay here: correct me if I’m wrong).

Tree inclined or ‘angled’ by the wing

I walked past other inclined trees, which sounded really surrealistic. The picture may sound as if it had been reedited, but nothing of that sort was done.

Trees inclined in a surrealistic way!

I then took a last view of this beach which I loved. I climbed a small sand hill, to do that.

Last view on the Flexeira beach

  

Then I walked a little further along the beach, to find some wooden stairs, leading to the lane on the upper part of the island.

Wooden stairs, leading to the lane on the upper side

I gave up, going by the beach, since I was almost in a hurry because of the boat schedule. That’s what made me climb the stairs and break into a stride, all the way to the south, down to the port.

view upwards to the wooden stairs

View downwards, from the top of the wooden stairs

Just then, it occurred to me: perhaps there are many of those stairs, and that could had saved me from wading across those apparently dangerous waters. Anyway, that is a reflection I could do on another walk someday on this lovely island. That’s all for this posting, folks. I hope it inspires other backpackers into going on walks across the islands around the Capital of the state of Pará, in the east of the Amazon region. Bye bye everybody!

After tide soil

THE END

0001 COTIJUBA ISLAND WEST COAST

PART 4 TRAILS ALONG COTIJUBA ISLAND’S WEST COAST

(Saudade, Sossego and funda beach

Route along the west coast. Seven Beaches.

First, took the main lane to the west, and walked for about five minutes. Then I reached the Farol beach, along which I walked

For 10 minutes, then along Amor beach for about five minutes. The tide was coming and I took the trail which goes along the beach, past some cottages, till I reached the Saudade beach, after almost two kilometers. Then, I climbed down natural stairs and walked along the beach. Halfway along, I saw  fishing boats.

                        View back of Saudade beach. Fishing boats

After that, I saw another fishing boat on a sandbank. The tide was coming quick. There weren’t much people, except for the fishers.

Although city people are afraid of sting rays in the lagoons, fishers’ children run around and play in the lagoons. There seem to be many myths about the island. Mind you, you can spot bones of stings on the sand. It looks frightening for outsiders.

Fishing boat on the sandbank. Tide coming quick!

Saudade Beach stretches for about 1.900 meters, slightly forming and arch. Behind the dunes, lie small creeks, where fishers catch shrimp. There are also some mangroves, as well as small ponds, some of them, almost inaccessible.

View ahead of the final part of Saudade beach. Wild appearance

The final part of the beach is narrow and stony. The beach is sided by a low-vegetation area, where trees are aligned.  Then you are faced with a higher bank, upon which stands a hut

Stony patch near the end of the beach

Some of the trees are very close to the shore: an evidence that the tide is really in. The shadows of these trees are nice for camping. One can put up his tent here and spend some time.

However, I was so curious, that I could hardly stop. I couldn’t wait to see what lies ahead!

View back at the stony and final part of Saudade Beach

Northern end of saudade Beach. View to the forest: a suitable place for camping!

At the end of Saudade beach, I saw tumble-down wooden stairs.

They led to a trail on the upper land. Because the tide was coming quick, I decided not to dare going by the beach.

It was a real old set of stairs. More of a natural, if anything!

Natural stairs leading to the upper land

Partial view from the top of the stairs. At the northern end of Saudade beach

And here’s me at the top. In the background, final part of Saudade beach

Once on the upper part, I could have a better view from Marajó Bay. It’s a large bay and you’ve got Marajó Island, about fourty quilometers across. It takes some crossing! On this weekday,

I hardly ever saw anybody on my way, except for the eventual local person. Besides, it was about mid-day, which is when most people are in their houses. People around here tend to take a siesta at this time of they. They just tie their hammocks and fall asleep, feeling the breeze and quiet. Anyway, I looked ahead and

View of a grove  from the upper land.

I then followed the lane to the north, past countryside houses, some of them, wooden ones. Most houses are alone. People seem to come here more on weekends, or on a monthly basis.

View back of the northbound lane along the west coast beaches

Wooden shack of a local

As you walk further, for a couple of meters, it becomes a walking trail. It also approaches the shore and rises. Among the trees, you see mango trees, taperebá trees and Brazil nut trees. The latter is rather tall! In the mango season, you can pick up and eat a lot of them on the way. The same with the taberebá, a small yellow fruit which results in a juice, which resembles the maracujá (passion fruit).

Taperebá is my favorite, along with the maracujá and murici, all of them, yellowish juices!

Northbound trail approaching the next beach

A couple more meters further, and I reached a covered shelter, from which I could see another beach. They call it Sossego beach. It’s also accessible by the main road that crosses the island from south to north, up to the northernmost beach, called Vai-quem-quer beach. Most holiday makers get a wagon, which looks like a trolley, and is pulled by a tractor. It carries people for about 6 km, from the southern pier to Vai-quem-quer beach.

Shelter with a view to a small beach called Sossego

I walked along this beach, and another. The next one is called Praia funda (Deep beach). It’s really deep. The sand dunes slope down towards the water, like a tobogan. Because I was worried about the tide, I preferred to stride ahead. It had been about two hours now and the sun was really beating down. However, I was pleased with this parade of beaches, trails and forests before my eyes, along with the countryside atmosphere of an off-season and off-the-beaten-track hike. I must mention the smell of flours and fruits, along with tang of the Marajó Bay water.

0001 COTIJUBA ISLAND WEST COAST

PART 3

ARRIVING IN THE ISLAND

As I arrived, I climbed a metal ramp leading up to the covered way of a long pier. As I looked back from the structure, I took picture one, where you can see both types of boats serving the route. The larger and the smaller (the po-po-po).

 The larger boat docking at Cotijuba Island.

A po-po-po boat on the foreground and islands in the background

As I walked on the pier, I looked to my right and took another photograph. The tide was low and a po-po-po lay on the muddy shore. People unfortunately throw tires around! Or have they fallen off the boats?

Po-po-po boat on the southern shore of the Island

Anyway, I walked on. In the initial part of the island, you see the usual vendors, selling local dishes. One of them is the Tacacá, which is some sort of a soup, consisting of jambu (a native variety of paracress), tucupi (a broth made with wild manioc) and shrimps. The dish is served extremely hot in a half calabash. My lips burned with the pepper and the numbing effect of the jambu leaves. Then I set out for the walk.

0001 COTIJUBA ISLAND WEST COAST

PART 2

50-MINUTE RIVERBOAT RIDE ACROSS THE BAY

Once in the riverboat, culture interested tourists may have a close-range experience. The boats leave when all benches are occupied. Pará people tend to be spontaneous, friendly and talkative, and once somebody starts talking, others get in the conversation. One can hear the language, and accents. For some reason, such friendliness doubles towards foreigners. In general, people are interested in what sounds different, odd and out of the ordinary.

The po-po-po sets sail! It’s a small dot crossing a vast expanse of water, referred to as the Marajó Bay. Some large rivers end in this region, such as the Guamá River, and the Tocantins. For about 40-50 minutes, eyes witness the yellowish waters, past some large islands, and near the shore, where you see the Ribeirinhos, local people who live in pile dwellings. Such dwellings often have a small wooden pier reaching out into the river.

I have to remind you that I took the larger boat on this day!

0001 COTIJUBA ISLAND WEST COAST

PART 1

ANANINDEUA-BELÉM-ICOARACI BUS RIDE – ICOARACI PIER

I woke up early and rode the bus for about forty minutes, from Ananindeua to Belém, and then to Icoaraci, a district from the capital of Pará. That’s a 45-minute bus ride. Ananindeua is a city located in the metropolitan area of Belém. That’s when you arrive at a pier, where you can watch the busy routine of the merchants, fishers and marketers. Wooden riverboats arrive here with goods and products from the towns, river settlements and villages along the mighty rivers. Once at the quay, you can buy a boat ticket at a ticket box placed right by the pier. You pay around five reais and walk along concrete pier to it’s end  (142m). Then you get into a 10-15m-boat (called ‘pô-pô-pô’ in Portuguese, as a reference to the repetitive noise noise of it’s engine. If you want to take the larger boat, you pay a little less (it sounds strange at first) but the explanation is simple: the larger boat sails only once a day. It leaves at nine in the morning and returns at about five in the afternoon. The smaller ones leave at every half an hour or so.

STORY: 0001

TITLE: COTIJUBA ISLAND WEST COAST

PLACE: COTIJUBA ISLAND

DURATION: 3 HOURS

DISTANCE: 5 KM (APROXIMATELY)

LOCATION: 8 KM AWAY FROM BELÉM

                               creek past a dune in flexeira beach

Creek at Vila do Conde, 110 km from Belém